New York’s Catskills a restaurant nirvana

Jul 03, 2010

By: Register Staff

By Stephen Fries
Special to the Register

Many people ask me how I became involved in the hospitality industry and food. I thought it was time to write about the area of New York — the Sullivan County Catskills — where it all began. Think of the movie “Dirty Dancing.” Like thousands of high school and college students, I worked at several of the famous resorts of the Catskills. These resorts were known for the tradition of good eating and plenty of it, too!

Only a little more than two hours from New Haven, the Sullivan County Catskills is the area I call my country escape. This part of the southern Catskill Mountains nestles up alongside the Delaware River. Here you will find a beautiful landscape, dotted with pristine lakes, rivers and mountainside retreats. If you are into historic covered bridges, you will find those, too.

The Catskills town of Bethel, N.Y., played host to the legendary Woodstock music festival in 1969. Today, the site is known as Bethel Woods Center For The Arts, a full scale concert venue and world-class tribute museum showcasing the Woodstock era. While here, experience the local arts, kayaking, fly fishing, hunting, hiking, boating, golf and great music. Getting back to nature is easy with the Beaverkill River, the birthplace of American fly-fishing, pristine lakes, watching bald eagles and driving through the lush mountainous countryside.

The area is home to many artists, writers and entertainers who say the area’s tranquility sparks their creativity. They appreciate the simplicity of country life. As I get onto Route 17, I, too, feel the tranquility and a calming feeling.

Most of the grand resorts of the past are gone. You might remember Grossinger’s and The Concord. The popularity of second homes, quaint bed and breakfasts, Monticello Casino and Raceway, as well as Bethel Woods have given rise to an eclectic food scene. As a New Haven foodie, I felt compelled to share some of my Sullivan County food haunts with you, and have you join me “On The Food Scene With Steve.”

Catskill Harvest Market, a gourmet grocery in Liberty (845-292-3838), features fresh food and garden products from Sullivan County and surrounding communities. Select your picnic foods including artisanal cheese, bread, meat, preserves and local produce, or enjoy eating in the cozy cafe.

Flour Power Bakery, an artisan bakery in Livingston Manor, (917-747-6895), has some of the best breads and pastries I have eaten outside of New York City. The ciabatta is the best I have had in all of my food travels. The French Toast Squares, the best bread pudding I have ever had is a recipe that JR Rowley wanted to share with you. Rowley, who was a food stylist in Manhattan, and his wife, Denise, a prop stylist, moved to the area from New York City and missed the pastries and breads that were plentiful in the big city. So they started simple — baking and taking their goodies to local farmers markets and then opened the bakery. Mostly organic flours, sugars, milk, local farm eggs, pure butter, alum-free baking powder and real vanilla are used in their creations. Local orchard berries in season at the farmers markets are what you will find in the pastries. The bakery offers savory food as well. Some of my favorites are the bread puddings and ruggelach, soups and quiche.

The Rolling River Café Bar, Gallery & Inn is an eclectic and funky restaurant. Chef Rob Rayevsky is also a children’s book illustrator.

Rolling River Café Bar, Gallery & Inn: in Parksville (845-747-4123) is the reincarnation of a small, one-family home into an eclectic and funky restaurant with a cuisine from many of Rob Rayevsky’s travels, including Russia, where he was born. Yes, there is a rolling river that adds to the ambiance to this rustic restaurant. The restaurant business is new to Rob and his wife, Kim, who co-author children’s books. Rob is also an accomplished children’s book illustrator, “Aesop’s Fables” being one that is renown. The couple’s goal was to bring these ingredients together in their establishment, cooking up a blend of food, art and music. If you visit, you will see they have accomplished that goal. The Rayevskys shared the recipe for one of the popular dishes, Rolling River Andouille sausage.

Fat Lady Cafe: Judith Maidenbaum, a psychoanalyst by day, is the pioneer that made the small “ghost town” of Kauneonga Lake (845-583-7133) into the restaurant hub of Sullivan County. After a complete renaissance, the tiny lake-side resort town now boasts four restaurants and is a nightlife hub, two miles from the original Woodstock site. With two large decks overlooking the lake, the amicable and witty Judith greets her guests, who enjoy full-course dinners or light fare from an extensive menu. With her passion for baking, you won’t be disappointed with the changing dessert menu. Check out the recipe for peach cake.

Benji & Jake’s was the second restaurant to open in Kauneonga Lake. It’s a brick oven gourmet pizza restaurant overlooking White Lake.

Benji & Jake’s: Adjacent to the Fat Lady and the second restaurant to open in Kauneonga Lake, the 20-something brothers created a brick oven gourmet pizza restaurant overlooking beautiful White Lake (845-583-4031). Prior to building this beautiful two-story brick structure, complete with two decks overlooking the lake, bar and music venue, the guys test-marketed their pizza. They built a brick oven pizza oven on the back of a small trailer and sold it at local farmers markets. Their pizza was well received, so they created a place that recreated the vibrancy of their childhood memories of vacationing on the lake. They are always cooking up an inventive pizza. On a recent visit, the Green Dream Pizza (shallots, cilantro, avocado, lime juice, cheese and red sauce) or Shrimp Scampi were the specials. Pizza isn’t the only menu item. Their repertoire of dinners include fresh trout, free-range chicken and seared tuna. And for dessert, try the dessert pizza or gelato. Later entries to the lake-front restaurant scene are Luzon Station and Michele’s Lakeside 55. All four of these restaurants offer docking for boats and spectacular views. Check them out for your pre- or post-Bethel Woods concert dining pleasure.

Café Yiasou in Liberty (845-292-3152) has the best Greek food outside of Greece, since owner and chef George Poulos brought his family recipes with him from the small town in Greece where his father owned a small taverna. Poulos is a gracious host who knows his guests by name. Fresh grilled fish, which George fillets for you, an abundant Greek salad and one, if not two, of the daily homemade desserts make a meal you won’t forget. Try the best coconut cream pie or baklava you have ever had. Poulos asked me to share his recipe for Baklava.

Fresh scones from The Bake House, which is on the rooftop deck of the Fat Lady Cafe. Chef Jane Axamethy also sells her small-batch artisan breads and pastries at many farmers markets.

The Bake House, located on the roof top deck of the Fat Lady Cafe, is where Jane Axamethy sells her small-batch artisan breads and pastries as well as at many of the farmers markets. Jane, who baked her way through college, is proud to be part of the food scene in Kauneonga Lake. Her German ancestors were bakers in the 1920’s and Jane followed that tradition, though she has degrees in biology and art. Her pepperjack cheese and ham croissants and fresh fruit scones are my favorites. Jane uses organic flour and locally grown products. Check out the recipe for the scones.

If you’re looking to slow down your life in the fast lane, pack your bags and head to the Sullivan County Catskills for the perfect getaway. I look forward to hearing about your trip to this country escape.

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